Monday, March 26, 2012

March: Goodbye Blood Oranges - Hello Spring Salmon

March denotes the end of blood orange season -- at least in my part of the world -- but it also heralds the arrival of fresh Spring (or Chinook) salmon. So while I had the opportunity to obtain both of these ingredients, I pulled out a recipe I've cooked many, many times that beautifully marries them together.

You use the blood oranges to make a version of the classic Sauce Maltaise (hollandaise made with orange juice instead of lemon). In this case the blood orange juice gives the sauce a lovely pink hue, which somehow makes me think of spring.
1/2 cup blood orange juice (you can substitute regular orange juice)
2 tbsp. rice vinegar
1 tsp. ginger, peeled and grated
1/2 tsp. garlic, minced
1/4 cup white wine
2 egg yolks
1/2 cup of butter, softened
Salt and Pepper to taste

Mix together the orange juice, vinegar, grated ginger and white wine in a small saucepan and bring to a boil Reduce to 1/4 cup then strain and set aside. In the top of a double boiler over simmering water, whisk together the egg yolks and the reduced orange juice mixture until pale, hot and slightly thickened. Whisk in the butter 1 tbsp. at a time, until it is all incorporated. Season to taste and keep the sauce at room temperature while the salmon is cooking.

The salmon is steamed in a Chinese bamboo steamer. Line the bottom of the steamer with parchment paper (this prevents the bamboo from absorbing the salmon flavour and it also makes clean up a breeze) then place the salmon fillets (7 oz fillets per person) on the parchment.

The steamer should fit within a large saute pan or wok. Fill the pan with water to just below the bottom of the bamboo. Slice a 2 inch piece of ginger and add it to the water, then bring the water to a simmer. Next place the steamer containing the salmon (covered with its domed lid) over the ginger water and cook for 8 minutes or until done. Note - don't season the salmon with salt and pepper until after it's done so that less of the milky white protein is released.

Place the salmon fillets on plates, spoon the sauce over top and garnish with a twist of sliced blood orange and some finely chopped chives.

Serve with a rich, oaky Chardonnay.

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