Duck with Pecan and Prune Mole

I'm heading to Mexico shortly, so decided to preview the cuisine by making a mole: a sauce that varies by region, but usually involves some kind(s) of chili peppers (toasted and re-hydrated), nuts and tomatoes or tomatillos as the base.

The recipe I followed was from Rosa's New Mexican Table cookbook. And since the chef, Roberto Santibanez, has already posted it on the web, I see no reason why I cannot reprint it here (below, serves 4). I bought Magret Duck breasts from my butcher -- a hybrid cross of Pekin and Muscovy ducks that are aged seven days on the bone to provide red, meaty flesh. It was a delicious meal (albeit a bit time consuming). We opened at bottle of Yalumba Shiraz-Viognier to enjoy with the meal -- and served rice and sauteed chard alongside. This is a good fall/winter menu if you are up for a bit of work.

2 1-pound moulard duck breasts (or duck of your preference)
1 tablespoon salt, plus more for duck
3/4 pound tomatillos, husked and washed
4 thick slices white onion
4 to 5 small cloves garlic
5 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup pecans, plus more coarsely chopped and toasted for topping (optional)
1/2 cup pitted prunes, plus more thinly sliced for topping (optional)
5 cups chicken broth, plus more for thinning down sauce
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
4 pasilla chiles, wiped clean, stemmed, seeded, and lightly toasted
3 mulato chiles, wiped clean, stemmed, seeded, and lightly toasted
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon sugar
Scallions, thinly sliced, for topping (optional)

1. With a sharp paring knife, make diagonal cuts about 3/4 inch apart through the skin and almost through all of the fat of the duck breasts without cutting into the meat. Make diagonal cuts in the opposite direction to score the skin and fat in a diamond pattern. (Cutting deep into the fat of the duck before cooking over low heat allows much of the fat to be rendered from the duck and also results in crisp skin.) Rub a generous amount of salt into both the meat and skin sides of the duck. Let stand at room temperature for up to 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to half a day. Bring to room temperature before cooking.

2. Meanwhile, make the mole: Position a rack about 8 inches from the broiler and preheat the broiler, to low if possible. Put the tomatillos, onion, and garlic on the broiler pan, place under the broiler, and roast, turning each vegetable as necessary, for about 12 minutes for the garlic, about 15 minutes for the onions, and about 20 minutes for the tomatillos, or until well browned, even charred in spots, on all sides. Remove each ingredient as it is browned and set aside to cool.

3. While the vegetables are cooling, in a small skillet set over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil. Add the pecans and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes, or until lightly toasted. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate. Add the prunes to the skillet and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes, or until softened and puffy. Scrape onto the plate with the pecans and let cool.

4. Working in batches, combine the pecans, prunes, tomatillos, onion, garlic, 3 cups chicken broth, the juice, chiles, thyme, and peppercorns in a blender and blend until smooth. In a large heavy saucepan set over medium heat, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil. Add the prune mixture and cook, stirring, until it comes to a boil. Adjust the heat so the sauce is simmering, stir in the sugar and the remaining 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until lightly thickened and shiny, about 30 minutes. As the sauce simmers, add as much of the remaining 2 cups broth, 1/4 cup at a time, as necessary to prevent sauce from becoming too thick. The sauce can be made up to 1 day in advance and refrigerated. Just before serving, reheat the sauce over low heat, adding small amounts of water as necessary to return it to the right consistency.

5. Put a heavy medium sized skillet over medium-low heat. Add the duck breasts skin side down and cook until much of the fat is rendered from the duck and the skin is a deep mahogany brown. (The key to successful browning/rendering is to keep the heat even and fairly low.) The whole process of rendering and browning can take up to 20 minutes. How much fat is rendered and how long it takes depends on the duck, but if the skin is taking on a fair amount of color before 10 minutes of cooking, lower the heat and continue cooking. Flip the duck breasts and cook for about 8 minutes, or until the second side is well browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the duck registers 140°F. This temperature will yield medium-rare to medium duck (i.e. a fairly pink center). Lower the heat slightly and increase the cooking time by 2 to 4 minutes for more well-done meat. Remove to a carving board and let stand for 5 to 10 minutes.

6. While the duck stands, reheat the sauce and thin down to a light consistency with more stock if needed.

7. Slice the duck breasts diagonally against the grain. Ladle about 1/3 cup sauce onto each of four plates. Top with overlapping slices of the duck. Scatter any or all of the toppings over the duck and serve.

Skyping for Supper

If you ever think that a distance of 4,500 km can keep friends from getting together for dinner on a Saturday night; think again. Thanks to two computers, webcams and Skype -- six old friends were able to gather and catch up over a delicious Spanish-themed dinner served simultaneously in Ontario and British Columbia. (Of course, the different time zones meant that some of us had to eat a bit earlier than usual and some had to eat a bit later). We had a ball!

We both started with olives and manchego cheese as nibblies while preparing Chicken Marbella from the first Silver Palate cookbook. To accompany the chicken each of us cooked arroz tradicional -- a short-grained rice from Spain that has the capacity to absorb a lot of liquid. And we both served a baby romaine salad with a creamy parmesan dressing and cheese crisps (recipe follows).

To accompany the meal we each served a Spanish Albarino from the Rias Baixas area. In BC we poured a 2010 vintage Lagar de Cervera Albarino and in Ontario a 2009 Leira Albarino.

Dessert, while not Spanish, was perfect for a fall night -- warm apple crisp and vanilla ice cream. Over coffee we got out old photo albums and reminisced over our annual fall trips in Algonquin Park. Let's hope these virtual dinner parties become a new tradition -- the next best thing to being there.

1 large egg yolk
1 tab whole-grain mustard
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tab while wine vinegar
1 cup grapeseed or olive oil
2-1/2 cups finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1-1/2 tab extra-virgin olive oil
Baby romaine or bibb lettuce, washed, dried and torn into pieces
1/2 cup whole almonds, toasted and finely chopped
Fresh fines herbes for garnish (optional)

In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolk, mustard, lemon juice and vinegar until well combined. Slowly add the oil in a thin steady stream until it is completely incorporated and the dressing looks emulsified. Whisk in 1 cup of the grated cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Thin with a teaspoon of cold water if very thick.

Heat the oven to 350 F. Line a baking sheet with a Silpat liner. In a small bowl, combine the remaining 1-1/2 cups cheese with the extra-virgin olive oil. Make little mounds of cheese on the Silpat, using a heaping tablespoon of cheese per mound and leaving about 2 inches between them. Gently flatten the mounds with an offset spatula or the palm of your hand to spread the cheese mixture into a very thin circle. You need to make at least 12 crisps for the salads.

Toss salad with dressing and plate, garnishing with 2 cheese crisps per serving, chopped almonds and fines herbes (if using). Serves 6

Gilding the fava bean

In the summer, when I get a chance, I love to make the trek down to the Richmond Country Farms market. Their local produce is fantastic, fresh and cheap! On my latest foray I bought a bag of fresh fava beans (also known as broad beans). While fava beans take a bit of work to prepare (they need to be shelled and then blanched to remove their tough outer skins) they are well worth the effort.

Now to the gilding part of my tale. Once home I scoured my cookbooks for a suitable salad that incorporated fava beans. Since it's finally gotten around to being summer on the west coast, I didn't want a heavy meal or one that would require me to turn on the oven. My solution: Lobster Salad with Fava Beans, Cherry Tomatoes, Avocado, Corn and Bacon. The base of the recipe is again from Suzanne Goin, but I did make some modifications (like adding fava beans). The combination was delicious.

You could go whole hog and buy a lobster or two to make this salad, but The Lobster Man on Granville Island sells cooked lobster meat and using it makes this salad a LOT easier to prepare. For two people I bought 6 oz of lobster meat and tossed it in a salad bowl with: 5 oz of double-smoked bacon (cut in to lardons and cooked until crisp); 1 cup of fresh corn (sauteed in remaining bacon fat with thyme and salt); cherry tomatoes; 1 avocado chopped, chopped parsley, chopped basil; and 4 oz. fava beans (after prepping as above). I made a simple shallot vinaigrette for the salad and served it over butter lettuce. Yum!

I served a rose with the salad: a 2010 Domaine De Nizas from the Languedoc region of France. An elegant wine to go with an elegant salad -- and a fantastic meal that all started with a fava bean addiction.

Asian Edamame Dip

If you are looking for a tasty, healthy appetizer -- you need look no further than this Asian Edamame Dip that appeared in the Holiday 2010 issue of the LCBO Food&Drink magazine. I have a friend that sends me every issue via our internal mail system and I anticipate its arrival every season. The BC provincial liquor outlet puts out a similar magazine, and while it's improving, it has yet to rival Food&Drink for its recipes, menu suggestions and "food porn" styling.

I first made this appetizer for my book club to rave reviews and since then it's become a bit of a standby. Don't be put off by the thought of making the accompanying wonton chips. They are really very easy to produce if you buy ready-made wonton wrappers (you can find them at T&Ts or in most produce sections of the major grocery chains) and they look quite impressive served alongside the dip.

Of course, if you have relatives like I do that are deathly allergic to soy products -- this is not a good idea to serve without a huge skull and crossbones symbol beside the serving plate and 911 on your speed dial! Otherwise add this to your appy repertoire as a colourful option easily made ahead.

Yellow Tomato Gazpacho and a New Blender

I bought a new toy for my kitchen -- a soup maker and blender, which made making this cold soup a breeze. I've been meaning to buy a good blender for some time -- ever since my food processor packed it in. I did some online research and determined that a Breville or Cuisinart were the best bets for the money (the Vitamix blender is probably THE best, but I was not prepared to invest that kind of money in a blender).

After looking at all the models I decided on the Cuisinart -- largely because it had the most power, at 900w, in my price range. It also has the added feature of being able to saute in the blender jar and keep a soup hot when serving. This wasn't a feature on my must-have list, but now that I have it, I think it will come in handy for making smooth sauces.

As for the soup itself -- here is the recipe. It's from Suzanne Goin (one of my very favourite chefs) and I followed it to the tee. I was able to get nice ripe yellow heirloom tomatoes at the market -- a must for this to turn out optimally. As Suzanne says in her notes that accompany the recipe, "you end up with unexpectedly dramatic results from a foolproof recipe that is easy to make."

Now this is what summer tastes like!

A hankering for saag and paneer

I've been trying to eat more vegetables lately and had a real craving the other night for saag and paneer. I turned to my trusty cookbook - Vij's Indian Cuisine and was not disappointed. The book has an appetizer version that calls for arugula and spinach in the proportions of 1/4 to 3/4 respectively (too much arugula makes it bitter). I discovered the BC Liquor Store's "Taste" magazine has a reproduction of the recipe here if you are interested in trying it out.

Paired with naan and a refreshing Gruner Veltliner -- this was a great simple dinner. The wine I chose was an Austrian 2010 Stift Goettweig Messwein Gruner Veltliner and it really was a perfect match -- very capable of standing up to the spice in the curry sauce.

This was an easy meal to make (note I bought ready-made paneer and naan). I'll replicate this combo again!