Duck with Pecan and Prune Mole

I'm heading to Mexico shortly, so decided to preview the cuisine by making a mole: a sauce that varies by region, but usually involves some kind(s) of chili peppers (toasted and re-hydrated), nuts and tomatoes or tomatillos as the base.

The recipe I followed was from Rosa's New Mexican Table cookbook. And since the chef, Roberto Santibanez, has already posted it on the web, I see no reason why I cannot reprint it here (below, serves 4). I bought Magret Duck breasts from my butcher -- a hybrid cross of Pekin and Muscovy ducks that are aged seven days on the bone to provide red, meaty flesh. It was a delicious meal (albeit a bit time consuming). We opened at bottle of Yalumba Shiraz-Viognier to enjoy with the meal -- and served rice and sauteed chard alongside. This is a good fall/winter menu if you are up for a bit of work.

2 1-pound moulard duck breasts (or duck of your preference)
1 tablespoon salt, plus more for duck
3/4 pound tomatillos, husked and washed
4 thick slices white onion
4 to 5 small cloves garlic
5 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup pecans, plus more coarsely chopped and toasted for topping (optional)
1/2 cup pitted prunes, plus more thinly sliced for topping (optional)
5 cups chicken broth, plus more for thinning down sauce
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
4 pasilla chiles, wiped clean, stemmed, seeded, and lightly toasted
3 mulato chiles, wiped clean, stemmed, seeded, and lightly toasted
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon sugar
Scallions, thinly sliced, for topping (optional)

1. With a sharp paring knife, make diagonal cuts about 3/4 inch apart through the skin and almost through all of the fat of the duck breasts without cutting into the meat. Make diagonal cuts in the opposite direction to score the skin and fat in a diamond pattern. (Cutting deep into the fat of the duck before cooking over low heat allows much of the fat to be rendered from the duck and also results in crisp skin.) Rub a generous amount of salt into both the meat and skin sides of the duck. Let stand at room temperature for up to 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to half a day. Bring to room temperature before cooking.

2. Meanwhile, make the mole: Position a rack about 8 inches from the broiler and preheat the broiler, to low if possible. Put the tomatillos, onion, and garlic on the broiler pan, place under the broiler, and roast, turning each vegetable as necessary, for about 12 minutes for the garlic, about 15 minutes for the onions, and about 20 minutes for the tomatillos, or until well browned, even charred in spots, on all sides. Remove each ingredient as it is browned and set aside to cool.

3. While the vegetables are cooling, in a small skillet set over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil. Add the pecans and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes, or until lightly toasted. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate. Add the prunes to the skillet and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes, or until softened and puffy. Scrape onto the plate with the pecans and let cool.

4. Working in batches, combine the pecans, prunes, tomatillos, onion, garlic, 3 cups chicken broth, the juice, chiles, thyme, and peppercorns in a blender and blend until smooth. In a large heavy saucepan set over medium heat, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil. Add the prune mixture and cook, stirring, until it comes to a boil. Adjust the heat so the sauce is simmering, stir in the sugar and the remaining 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until lightly thickened and shiny, about 30 minutes. As the sauce simmers, add as much of the remaining 2 cups broth, 1/4 cup at a time, as necessary to prevent sauce from becoming too thick. The sauce can be made up to 1 day in advance and refrigerated. Just before serving, reheat the sauce over low heat, adding small amounts of water as necessary to return it to the right consistency.

5. Put a heavy medium sized skillet over medium-low heat. Add the duck breasts skin side down and cook until much of the fat is rendered from the duck and the skin is a deep mahogany brown. (The key to successful browning/rendering is to keep the heat even and fairly low.) The whole process of rendering and browning can take up to 20 minutes. How much fat is rendered and how long it takes depends on the duck, but if the skin is taking on a fair amount of color before 10 minutes of cooking, lower the heat and continue cooking. Flip the duck breasts and cook for about 8 minutes, or until the second side is well browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the duck registers 140°F. This temperature will yield medium-rare to medium duck (i.e. a fairly pink center). Lower the heat slightly and increase the cooking time by 2 to 4 minutes for more well-done meat. Remove to a carving board and let stand for 5 to 10 minutes.

6. While the duck stands, reheat the sauce and thin down to a light consistency with more stock if needed.

7. Slice the duck breasts diagonally against the grain. Ladle about 1/3 cup sauce onto each of four plates. Top with overlapping slices of the duck. Scatter any or all of the toppings over the duck and serve.