Tortellini Pasta Salad --- The Way to a Son's Heart

Every year, for at least the last twenty years, my middle son has one and only one request for his birthday -- "Mom, you are going to make me tortellini pasta salad again this year aren't you?" And my answer is always yes -- even when we have been separated by thousands of kilometers! Thank goodness for couriers! So this year was no different -- I pulled out my recipe that I know by heart and made up a batch of this very tasty pasta salad. The result was a huge smile on my son's face, a big hug and a chorus of "you're the best mom ever". I think you can see why I keep making this pasta salad year after year!

The recipe for Tortellini with Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto Salad is from an older cookbook I have -- Nantucket Open-House Cookbook by Sarah Leah Chase, and I have reproduced it below.

The only change I make is that I only use 1 cup of olive oil in the pesto not 1-1/2 cups (I found it a bit too oily otherwise and not necessary) -- and because my son LOVES pepperoni, I probably slice up 3 sticks of pepperoni in the salad itself instead of the 1 stick it calls for.

The other note I'd make is that pepperoni comes in various sizes -- but I try and look for the slender, firm, air-dried type versus the mass produced  pizza type more often found in a grocery store. Both work -- but I like the slightly sweet, tangy flavour that comes with the thinner, usually hand made, pepperoni. I also go on the basis that 1/2 stick of pepperoni = 1/4 pound as is called for in the recipe.

This pasta salad can generously serve 10 people ... or one 6 foot 3 inch son!

Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto
1/2 stick pepperoni (about 1/4 pound), cut into small dice
3 tab. Dijon mustard
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tab. fennel seeds
1 jar (7 ounces) sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil
1 cup olive oil
2 tab fresh lemon juice
Sale and freshly ground pepper to taste

1. Prepare the pesto: Place the peperoni, mustard, garlic, fennel seeds, and sun-dried tomatoes with oil in a food processor fitted with the steel blade; process until smooth. With the machine running pour the olive oil in a thin, steady stream through the feed tube and continue processing until the mixture is smooth. Season with lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste.

Salad
2 pounds cheese or meat filled tortellini, cooked and drained
2 ripe medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 yellow bell pepper seeded and diced
1 stick pepperoni thinly sliced
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
3 tab chopped fresh basil

2. Combine the tortellini, tomatoes, yellow pepper and pepperoni in a large mixing bowl. Add the pesto and toss to coat. Sprinkle with the parsley and basil. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Raspberry-Balsamic Semifreddo

Fresh raspberries are in season on the west coast. As well, it's been sunny and hot so when I hosted a group of friends for a summer dinner recently I decided to try this frozen Italian dessert as a "light" option. I say light -- but only because it presents as lighter fare at the end of a meal -- not because it's a low cal dessert. It's not at roughly 300 calories per serving, but it's worth every calorie!

The recipe is from the latest issue of Fine Cooking and there is a step-by-step video guide to walk you through the various stages to make a semifreddo. My one comment would be -- use a really good aged balsamic vinegar if you have it. I used a Lucini Modena Balsmic and I did have Chambord on hand for the zabaglione.

To serve, I put a slice of the semifreddo on a smear of pureed, seedless raspberries and then topped it with a few fresh raspberries and a sprig of mint. Not only does it look spectacular (I stupidly forgot to take a photo to post), it's absolutely delicious. Everyone wanted the recipe and I'm sure seven more copies of the August/September Fine Cooking magazine were purchased as a result.

Curried English Pea Soup with Creme Fraiche

I'll be right up front by saying I HATE the mealy taste of pea soup -- always have, always will; except for this pea soup. I don't remember what prompted me to try it, but am I ever glad I did cuz it's opened up a whole new taste sensation that I was missing -- spring in a bowl.

I think the key is to use fresh peas in the pod -- commonly known as English Peas or Sugar Snap Peas. Now in many seasons these won't be available depending on the climate zone you are in -- so good quality frozen peas will be a credible substitute in this case, but I stress the adjective "good-quality".

I recently made this recipe for a lunch with work colleagues/friends. It is meant to be served hot, but since it was a warm summer day, I served it cold, which works just as well -- especially with the creme fraiche and mint topping. Creme fraiche is a matured, thickened cream with a slightly tangy, nutty flavour. You can buy it in the grocery store for an exorbitant price or you can easily make it at home (mix 1 cup whipping cream with 2 tab buttermilk in a glass container, cover and let stand at room temp for 8 to 24 hours or until very thick).

6 tab unsalted butter
1-1/2 cups diced white onions
Heaping 1/2 tsp curry powder
2 cups thinly sliced butter lettuce
3 cups shucked peas from 3 lbs in the pod, or frozen if out of season
1 tsp sugar
6 mint leaves, plus 2 tab sliced mint
5 cups vegetable stock or water
1/2 lemon
1/4 cup creme fraiche
salt and pepper to taste

1. Heat a large saucepan over high heat for about 1 minute. Add 4 tab butter and when it foams, stir in the onions, curry powder, and 1 tsp of salt. Turn the heat down to medium and cook 5 to 7 minutes, until the onion is translucent and just starting to colour.
2. Add the lettuce, peas, 1-1/4 tsps salt, sugar and the remaining butter. Stir to coat well, and cook another 4 to 5 minutes, until the lettuce is wilted. Stir in the whole mint leaves, add the stock, and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down to a low simmer, and cook until the peas are just tender.
3. Strain the soup over a bowl. Put half the pea mixture into a blender with 1/2 cup of the stock and process on the lowest speed until the mixture is pureed. With the blender running at medium speed, slowly pour in more of the stock, until the soup is the consistency of heavy cream. Turn the speed up to high, and blend for at least a minute, until completely smooth. Set aside and repeat with the second batch. Add 1/2 tsp lemon juice, and taste for seasoning.
4. Pour the soup into bowls, spoon some creme fraiche in the centre (or similar to garnish), and scatter the sliced mint over the top.

Serves 6

NB: This soup is a great first course for the Lobster, Fava Bean Salad I posted a while ago in this blog. Check it out.

A++ Caramel and Macadamia Cheesecake to End the School Year

My son successfully finished up his first year of post-secondary education so to celebrate I gave him carte blanche to pick his favourites for a celebratory meal. Of course dessert figured prominently in his meal and cheesecake is his idea of perfection. Over the years I've baked many a cheesecake, but this one is in the gold standard category. First of all, it's covered in caramel and nuts -- what's not to love about that combo, and second it's got a rich, buttery cake batter that just melts in your mouth.

The caramel on the nut topping went a little darker than I like.

I suppose you could use something other than macadamia nuts for the topping, but their buttery-rich flavour really lends a nice complementary taste to the cake itself. And BTW, because macadamia nuts have such a high fat content (this is not a low cal dessert!!), they should be stored in the refrigerator or freezer to prevent rancidity before use.

The trick with this recipe is the caramel sauces -- there are two made using different methods. My only word of caution is to stay on top of the timing. You do that, and this recipe is relatively easy to create with max wow factor when served. 

600g good-quality cream cheese, at room temperature

120g berry sugar or superfine sugar

1/2 vanilla bean (it's really important to use a vanilla bean vs. vanilla extract)

4 eggs, lightly beaten

60 ml sour cream

icing sugar for dusting

160g dry biscuits like HobNobs

40g unsalted butter, melted

150g macadamia nuts

90g berry sugar or superfine sugar

65g unsalted butter

160g berry sugar or superfine sugar

100ml whipping cream, at room temperature

1. Preheat the oven to 300F. Lightly grease a 20cm springform cake pan and line the base and sides with parchment.
2. Make the cake base by grinding the biscuits to crumbs in a food processor (or put them in a heavy-duty plastic bag and bash with a rolling pin -- great for getting out your frustrations!). Mix with 40g melted butter until you have a wet, sandy consistency. Transfer to the lined tin and flatten with your knuckles, or a spoon, until you have a level base.
3. To make the cake batter, put 120g sugar and cream cheese in a mixing bowl. Slit the vanilla pod lengthwise in half and, using a sharp knife, scrape the seeds out into the bowl. Whisk with an electric mixer until smooth. Gradually add the eggs and sour cream, whisking until smooth. Pour the mixture over the biscuit base and place in the oven. Bake for 60-70 minutes, until set (a skewer inserted in the centre should come out with a slightly wet crumb attached). Leave to cool to room temperature, then turn out onto a cake platter. Chill the cake for at least two hours.
4. To prepare the nut topping, scatter the nuts over a baking sheet and roast in a 300F oven for about 15 minutes until golden. Remove from the oven and set aside. Line a baking tray with parchment. Place 90g fine sugar in a saucepan with a very thick base (sugar should not be more than 1/8 inch high). Heat the sugar gently until it turns a golden-brown caramel. DO NOT STIR at any stage. Carefully add the toasted nuts and mix gently with a wooden spoon. When most of the nuts are coated in caramel, pour them on to the lined tray and leave to set. Break bits off and chop them very roughly with a large knife. Leave some whole.
5. To make the caramel sauce, put 65g unsalted butter and 160g berry sugar in a thick-bottomed saucepan and stir constantly over medium heat with a wooden spoon until it becomes a smooth, dark caramel. The butter and sugar will look like they have split, but don't worry; just keep on stirring. Once the desired colour is reached, carefully add the whipping cream while stirring vigorously. Remove from the heat and cool.
6. To finish the cake, dust the edges and sides with plenty of icing sugar. Spoon the caramel sauce in the centre, allowing it to spill over a little. Scatter lots of caramelized nuts on top.
7. The cheesecake will keep in the fridge for 3 days.

Serves 8 (or more as this is so rich it goes far!)

March: Goodbye Blood Oranges - Hello Spring Salmon

March denotes the end of blood orange season -- at least in my part of the world -- but it also heralds the arrival of fresh Spring (or Chinook) salmon. So while I had the opportunity to obtain both of these ingredients, I pulled out a recipe I've cooked many, many times that beautifully marries them together.

You use the blood oranges to make a version of the classic Sauce Maltaise (hollandaise made with orange juice instead of lemon). In this case the blood orange juice gives the sauce a lovely pink hue, which somehow makes me think of spring.
1/2 cup blood orange juice (you can substitute regular orange juice)
2 tbsp. rice vinegar
1 tsp. ginger, peeled and grated
1/2 tsp. garlic, minced
1/4 cup white wine
2 egg yolks
1/2 cup of butter, softened
Salt and Pepper to taste

Mix together the orange juice, vinegar, grated ginger and white wine in a small saucepan and bring to a boil Reduce to 1/4 cup then strain and set aside. In the top of a double boiler over simmering water, whisk together the egg yolks and the reduced orange juice mixture until pale, hot and slightly thickened. Whisk in the butter 1 tbsp. at a time, until it is all incorporated. Season to taste and keep the sauce at room temperature while the salmon is cooking.

The salmon is steamed in a Chinese bamboo steamer. Line the bottom of the steamer with parchment paper (this prevents the bamboo from absorbing the salmon flavour and it also makes clean up a breeze) then place the salmon fillets (7 oz fillets per person) on the parchment.

The steamer should fit within a large saute pan or wok. Fill the pan with water to just below the bottom of the bamboo. Slice a 2 inch piece of ginger and add it to the water, then bring the water to a simmer. Next place the steamer containing the salmon (covered with its domed lid) over the ginger water and cook for 8 minutes or until done. Note - don't season the salmon with salt and pepper until after it's done so that less of the milky white protein is released.

Place the salmon fillets on plates, spoon the sauce over top and garnish with a twist of sliced blood orange and some finely chopped chives.

Serve with a rich, oaky Chardonnay.

Mexican Feasts and Friends

I cooked dinner last night for an amazing group of new friends (with much help from my sous-chefs) to celebrate what I hope will be the first of many reunions of the San Miguel Lost in Margaritaville Class of 2011. Of course the meal had to be a Mexican feast to properly evoke the wonderful memories of our week south -- so I turned, as I often do when looking for inspiring Mexican food, to Chef Roberto Santibanez. I was not disappointed.

We began with a Watercress, Orange and Avocado Salad. The dressing is a tangy blend of sweet and spice (as so many Mexican dishes are) and calls for pomegranate molasses. This is not easy to source, but if you live in Vancouver you can find pomegranate molasses at Naz Mediterranean Products & Halal Meats on Fraser (elsewhere check out a local Middle Eastern market or try making it yourself). We served two different white wines to accompany this first course -- an Austrian Gruner Veltliner and an Oregon Pinot Gris -- both offer a nice crisp, fruity balance to the lime in the dressing of the salad.

The salad was followed by a self-serve buffet, which included:

• Swiss Chard with Beets, Goat Cheese and Raisins 
• Mushrooms in Escabèche with Red Bell Peppers and Chiles de Arbol: An escabeche is a marinade that begins with the slow cooking of onions, garlic, bay leaf and various spices in olive oil and vinegar. The main ingredient can vary -- from vegetables to meat to seafood, but it's always recommended that you make an escabeche a few days ahead, as it only gets better after a few days in the refrigerator.
• Serano Ham and Poblano Corn Pudding: I served this pudding in individual ramekin dishes, which worked well. The recipe calls for poblano chiles -- milder than other green chiles -- that are charred, peeled and seeded. It also calls for instant corn masa mix which is available in many Latin markets.
• Bacon-Wrapped Turkey Breast with Hazelnut Mole: Santibanez says that "according to lore, the original mole (derived from the ancient Nahuatl word molli, meaning a concoction) was served with turkey that had been fattened with hazelnuts". This particular mole includes fruit (apples, plantain, prunes) chiles (guajillo and ancho), spices and hazelnuts.

We paired two different reds with the main course: 2009 J. Lohr Estates South Ridge Syrah from California, and a French syrah, grenache and mourvèdre blend -- 2007 E.Guigal Côtes Du Rhône. 

For dessert I served Mexican Chocolate Mousse with Burnt Rum and Cinnamon-Almond Cookies. I'll also add a word of caution when flaming the 3/4 cup of white rum that gets added to the mousse -- stand back, stir in with a VERY long spoon, and have a fire extinguisher on hand!

It was a grand evening and I am sure this group will share many more memorable feasts together in the not to distant future. Next -- Ottawa with beaver tails in Byward Market?

Duck with Pecan and Prune Mole

I'm heading to Mexico shortly, so decided to preview the cuisine by making a mole: a sauce that varies by region, but usually involves some kind(s) of chili peppers (toasted and re-hydrated), nuts and tomatoes or tomatillos as the base.

The recipe I followed was from Rosa's New Mexican Table cookbook. And since the chef, Roberto Santibanez, has already posted it on the web, I see no reason why I cannot reprint it here (below, serves 4). I bought Magret Duck breasts from my butcher -- a hybrid cross of Pekin and Muscovy ducks that are aged seven days on the bone to provide red, meaty flesh. It was a delicious meal (albeit a bit time consuming). We opened at bottle of Yalumba Shiraz-Viognier to enjoy with the meal -- and served rice and sauteed chard alongside. This is a good fall/winter menu if you are up for a bit of work.

2 1-pound moulard duck breasts (or duck of your preference)
1 tablespoon salt, plus more for duck
3/4 pound tomatillos, husked and washed
4 thick slices white onion
4 to 5 small cloves garlic
5 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup pecans, plus more coarsely chopped and toasted for topping (optional)
1/2 cup pitted prunes, plus more thinly sliced for topping (optional)
5 cups chicken broth, plus more for thinning down sauce
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
4 pasilla chiles, wiped clean, stemmed, seeded, and lightly toasted
3 mulato chiles, wiped clean, stemmed, seeded, and lightly toasted
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon sugar
Scallions, thinly sliced, for topping (optional)

1. With a sharp paring knife, make diagonal cuts about 3/4 inch apart through the skin and almost through all of the fat of the duck breasts without cutting into the meat. Make diagonal cuts in the opposite direction to score the skin and fat in a diamond pattern. (Cutting deep into the fat of the duck before cooking over low heat allows much of the fat to be rendered from the duck and also results in crisp skin.) Rub a generous amount of salt into both the meat and skin sides of the duck. Let stand at room temperature for up to 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to half a day. Bring to room temperature before cooking.

2. Meanwhile, make the mole: Position a rack about 8 inches from the broiler and preheat the broiler, to low if possible. Put the tomatillos, onion, and garlic on the broiler pan, place under the broiler, and roast, turning each vegetable as necessary, for about 12 minutes for the garlic, about 15 minutes for the onions, and about 20 minutes for the tomatillos, or until well browned, even charred in spots, on all sides. Remove each ingredient as it is browned and set aside to cool.

3. While the vegetables are cooling, in a small skillet set over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil. Add the pecans and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes, or until lightly toasted. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate. Add the prunes to the skillet and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes, or until softened and puffy. Scrape onto the plate with the pecans and let cool.

4. Working in batches, combine the pecans, prunes, tomatillos, onion, garlic, 3 cups chicken broth, the juice, chiles, thyme, and peppercorns in a blender and blend until smooth. In a large heavy saucepan set over medium heat, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil. Add the prune mixture and cook, stirring, until it comes to a boil. Adjust the heat so the sauce is simmering, stir in the sugar and the remaining 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until lightly thickened and shiny, about 30 minutes. As the sauce simmers, add as much of the remaining 2 cups broth, 1/4 cup at a time, as necessary to prevent sauce from becoming too thick. The sauce can be made up to 1 day in advance and refrigerated. Just before serving, reheat the sauce over low heat, adding small amounts of water as necessary to return it to the right consistency.

5. Put a heavy medium sized skillet over medium-low heat. Add the duck breasts skin side down and cook until much of the fat is rendered from the duck and the skin is a deep mahogany brown. (The key to successful browning/rendering is to keep the heat even and fairly low.) The whole process of rendering and browning can take up to 20 minutes. How much fat is rendered and how long it takes depends on the duck, but if the skin is taking on a fair amount of color before 10 minutes of cooking, lower the heat and continue cooking. Flip the duck breasts and cook for about 8 minutes, or until the second side is well browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the duck registers 140°F. This temperature will yield medium-rare to medium duck (i.e. a fairly pink center). Lower the heat slightly and increase the cooking time by 2 to 4 minutes for more well-done meat. Remove to a carving board and let stand for 5 to 10 minutes.

6. While the duck stands, reheat the sauce and thin down to a light consistency with more stock if needed.

7. Slice the duck breasts diagonally against the grain. Ladle about 1/3 cup sauce onto each of four plates. Top with overlapping slices of the duck. Scatter any or all of the toppings over the duck and serve.